Friday, September 16, 2011

Toronto Star - Acadia 3.5*/4

Acadia does Southern food with soul and style

Amy PatakiRestaurant Critic

Acadia

(out of 4)

Address: 50C Clinton St. (at College St.), 416-792-6002, acadiarestaurant.com

Chef: Matt Blondin

Hours: Wednesday to Monday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

Wheelchair access: No

Price: Dinner for two with cocktails, tax and wine: $140

Acadia is a delicious lesson that talent, not background, counts.

The two-month-old Clinton St. restaurant proves that a French-Canadian chef from Sudbury can cook Southern food with soul and style.

It dovetails with the “appropriation of voice” debates around The Help, a novel-turned-movie written by a white woman from the point of view of black maids in 1960s Mississippi.

The Help author Kathryn Stockett is from Mississippi. Acadia chef/co-owner Matt Blondin is blunt about his connection to the South.

“I have none,” he says.

“I like the culture, I’m intrigued by the ingredients and I have a passion for new and interesting things.”

So Blondin and partner Scott Selland decided to bring Southern food to the city.

Blondin, 28, has never been south of Chicago. He’s done most of his cooking in such envelope-pushing Toronto restaurants as Colborne Lane, where he helped execute Claudio Aprile’s molecular gastronomy tasting menus.

The apple foam doesn’t fall far from the tree. Blondin bends low over each plate in the open kitchen of Acadia, ensuring the chlorophyll squiggles and whipped buttermilk garnishes are just so. It’s el Bulli by way of the Charleston Junior League cookbook.

Yet the high-concept blend of southern coastal cooking — Blondin covers South Carolina, Georgia, Louisiana and even Acadian Maritime cooking — is as delightful as it is unexpected.

Blondin took to the vernacular of pickled watermelon rinds and pimento cheese like a Bluetick Coonhound to the scent, learning to make his own andouille sausage and sourcing his yellow pencil Cobb grits from South Carolina’s Anson Mills.

He pairs crisp chicken crackling with wobbly sea scallops ($14), and pours a respectable Gulf prawn étouffée over firm red grouper ($23). His cornbread ($6) — baked in a miniature cast-iron skillet and served warm, with whipped brown-butter sweet potatoes — is a thing of beauty.

And if that doesn’t convince you, one rich forkful of Acadia’s grits and shrimp ($13) will.

Blondin elevates the Lowcountry classic considerably beyond homey with a postmodern glass bowl and chervil garnish. The grits are beautifully textured — creamy yet slightly chewy, with snap from lightly poached shrimp — and innovatively flavoured with delicate smoked pork hock consommé and a hit of pimento cheese (chili-flecked aged cheddar and Monterey Jack).

The high-low contrast is what makes Acadia so delightful. It’s there in the pickle tray that graces every table in lieu of a bread basket. The dish is long and elegant, an upscale container for down-home boiled peanuts, pickled okra and tiny gherkin cucumbers.

But the bells and whistles of a glass terrarium holding cold crab meat, celery relish and buttermilk foam ($12) fail to make the fare exciting.

The room is sparse. The only colour comes from the yellow T-shirts on the servers, who are informative rather than engaging. The chairs look hard, but are comfortable. Retro cocktails like the piña colada ($11) and the rye-based Sazerac ($12) are playful but potent.

Pork ribs ($24) are essentially haute barbecue. The ribs come stacked like Lincoln Logs and are pretty straightforward, even if they’re disappointingly dry in places. The pizzazz comes from the grains on the side: puffed amaranth and firm sorghum, the latter starring in a lemony salad. The frizzled “tobacco leeks” on top aren’t actually made with tobacco, just meant to resemble it.

Blondin acknowledges his esoteric ingredients may intimidate some. That’s why there’s an approachable savoury tart ($16) filled with caramelized Vidalia onions and smoky homemade Tasso ham. It’s fine, but not inspired.

We can all probably agree on the excellence of the sugar pie ($10). Acadia fills a butter-tart-like shell with condensed milk, brown sugar and egg yolks. The result is firm, slightly grainy and miraculously not too sweet. The toffee-like raisins and vanilla ice cream on top are delicious overkill.

Even in a city where some of the best Italian and French food is made by Sri Lankan chefs, Blondin admits he was “frightened at first” that people would denigrate his lack of Southern background. Then he took courage.

“We could’ve done our take on Swedish food and it doesn’t mean I have to be Swedish,” Blondin says.

“If the perseverance is there, you can adapt yourself to any style.”

Perseverance plus talent.

apataki@thestar.ca

www.twitter.com/amypataki

Gourmet Magazine - Top Places in Toronto

2011’S DINING HOT SPOT: TORONTO

ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN GOURMET LIVE 09.14.11
Restaurant critic Chris Nuttall-Smith’s exuberant guide to his deliciously diverse hometown

"And you probably shouldn’t miss Acadia (416-792-6002), the casual, buzzy room that opened in July with a 28-year-old rising star named Matt Blondin at its stove. Blondin, who trained as a fine dining chef, has taken on the tastes and ingredients of the Acadian migration, which spans the Atlantic coast from Canada’s Maritime Provinces right down to Louisiana. He’s melded contemporary Cajun—the étoufées and boudin balls and chow-chow relishes—with a bit of his French-Canadian heritage, and brilliantly, too, and then married all that somehow with the shrimp-and-grits soul of South Carolina and Georgia’s Low Country cuisine. What’s that taste like? Like the green tomato tart that’s built up from buttery puff pastry slicked with fire-roasted, fermented black garlic-goosed cornmeal, and then stacked with whole, oven-warmed tomatoes that have been peeled so that they’re sweet and sour and nearly translucent. They all but quiver when you touch them with a fork. Blondin puts a bit of licorice-y chervil over top, dusts it all with almond-praline powder, and then pipes a bolt of celeriac puree on the plate. It’s one of the greatest dishes in the city right now. But the city’s swelling and changing, always. Toronto gets a new best dish nearly every other week."

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Menumental - Acadia Restaurant


MENUMENTAL: Low-country cooking of the highest level at Acadia


    Fine dining may teeter on the edge of extinction in this town, but the new order, where tablecloths are eschewed and entrees rarely top $30, has spawned a number of terrific restaurants: Frank's Kitchen, Enoteca Sociale, Queen Margherita Pizza and Origin, to name a few.

This proliferation in the mid-range, however, comes at a price: excitement.

Chefs are afraid to take chances these days and their menus are like Ambien for the epicure. Even Origin, the most imaginative of the lot, slings a beet salad, miso cod and corn on the cob. Zzzzz...

Enter Chef Matt Blondin and his front of house partner, Scott Selland. These two young fellas met at Colborne Lane, which during its peak (not coincidentally during their tenure), was the most exciting place to dine in Toronto. At their new venture, Acadia, the dynamic duo have taken our dining scene out of its burger-induced torpor and opened the best restaurant in Toronto since The Black Hoof.

Start with one of Selland's fabulous cocktails, such as "Call Me in the Morning", a summery lowball of gin, Lillet blanc and fresh peaches. Beer gets as much attention as wine on the libation list - crisp King Pilsner and citrusy Hoptical Illusion are both on tap - and pairs well with Blondin's high-minded low-country cooking.

An order of corn bread served with a satiny emulsion of sweet potatoes and butter is essential ordering. Baked a la minute, the bread is light, crisp on the exterior and full of corn flavour, a revelation compared to the dense, sweet cake that masquerades as corn bread at most restaurants.

From concept, to execution, to presentation, the food is out of this world. An appetizer of seared scallops is not cliched in Blondin's hands: crusty exteriors yielding to quivering centres, the perfectly cooked bivalves are accessorized with impossibly thin chicken cracklings, Parmesan tuiles and juicy strips of pickled watermelon rind, which add a riot of textures and flavours.

Served in what looks like a groovy ashtray from the '70s, a dish of grits (American polenta) with shrimp, pimento cheese and ham hock consomme is good enough to make a nun scream "Hells, yeah!" and the best dish I've eaten all year.

Mains keep the culinary fireworks popping. Veal tenderloin is juicy and bloody, served with a sensational succotash of sweet corn, spelt berries, double smoked bacon and cream.

A peach and blackberry crisp is the only false note during Blondin's gastronomic symphony of awesome. Served in a Mason jar - die, Mason jar trend, die - the dish is surprisingly unpeachy, though the refreshing soy milk ice cream is excellent.

Stop what you're doing and make a reservation at Acadia before it becomes the toughest table in town. Restaurants of this ambition and calibre are a rare bird in a city that likes to play it safe.

Acadia

50C Clinton St. (north of College Street)

416-792-6002

Dinner for two with drinks, tax and tip: $160

www.acadiarestaurant.com

True Grits - Toronto Life 3.5*

Sharp Magazine - Acadia

Toronto Star - Meet the Matts


Meet the Matts

By Amy PatakiRestaurant Critic

Toronto’s three most talked-about restaurants are helmed by chefs named Matt. Matt Blondin,  Matt DeMille and Matthew Barber spoke to the Star about their cooking styles, kitchen idols and what to do with 30 kilos of ripe Ontario peaches.

Toronto’s three most talked-about restaurants are helmed by chefs named Matt. Matt Blondin, Matt DeMille and Matthew Barber spoke to the Star about their cooking styles, kitchen idols and what to do with 30 kilos of ripe Ontario peaches.

TARA WALTON/Photo Credit
Call it, the summer of Matt

Toronto’s three most talked-about restaurants are helmed by chefs named Matt.

There’s Matt Blondin doing high-concept Southern food at his new restaurant, Acadia, on Clinton St. at College.

On Dundas St. W. at Dovercourt, Matt DeMille took over the kitchen at the popular Roman-style trattoria Enoteca Sociale on July 26, freeing founding chef/co-owner Rocco Agostino to open Pizzeria Libretto’s second location, on Danforth Ave. at Carlaw Ave.

Matthew Barber’s southwestern comfort food has drawn crowds to The Combine Eatery on the Danforth.

The trio was game to answer the Star’s quirky questions and pose for a group photograph. Blondin proposed following the lead of Montreal chef/hunter Martin Picard by taking a photo “naked with a dead deer and a glass of Pinot.”

Despite the differences in their cooking styles, we learned the three share certain traits. All grew up outside Toronto, have kitchen idols they look up to and know exactly what to do with 30 kilograms of ripe Ontario peaches.

MATT BLONDIN

Chef at Acadia

Date of birth: May 5, 1983

Nickname: LeBlanc

Hometown: Near Sudbury, Ont.

CV: Colborne Lane, Rain

Signature dish: Sun Gold tomatoes with lightly pickled shrimp, nasturtiums, lovage and three variations on celery (hearts, leaves and root)

Cooking style: New American flavours with an East Coast influence

Moment he knew he had talent: When Guy Rubino told me I had what it takes to make it

Kitchen idol: Curtis Duffy (of Chicago’s Avenues), for his all-around professionalism, calmness, dedication and treatment of staff

After-work libation: Cold beer

Three items always in his fridge: Coca-Cola, cheese, apples

Dish his mother makes best: She does a lot of good things with blueberries and baking

Best career advice he’s received: Nothing about opening your own restaurant, that’s for sure

Peaches are in season. What would you do with 30 kilos? Make peach mustard for a Tasso ham dish, infuse some in bourbon for a cocktail and either roast or confit whole pitted peaches for dessert


Globe and Mail - Acadia Restaurant

Acadia’s Lowcountry cooking deserves the highest praise

From Saturday's Globe and Mail

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Kiss Their Grits - The Grid

WED AUG 10, 2011_FOOD AND DRINK

Kiss their grits

Serving up classic east coast dishes using unconventional cooking techniques, Clinton Street's Acadia is an impressive project for two first-time restauranteurs.

How do you make a chlorophyll base? After inspecting trays of herbs and greens that arrived one Monday morning at his new restaurant, Acadia (50C Clinton St., 416-792-6002, #COL), Matt Blondin explains the process.

“You blanch any chlorophyll-rich leaves or vegetables—in this case it’s purslane, spinach, parsley and lovage. Then you purée and boil it and skim the pigment off the top,” says the 28-year-old, spiky-haired chef. “It’s a very flavourful, earthy pigment that can be added to anything, like mayonnaise or even drinks.” At the restaurant, he serves the concoction with buttery red grouper and homemade andouille sausage.

Blondin and 27-year-old Scott Selland, who runs the front of house, have embarked on an ambitious project for two first-time restaurateurs. They’re serving cuisine inspired by the sprawling Acadian region—the former French territories in the Maritimes, eastern Quebec and, at least in terms of cuisine, parts of Louisiana. And they’re doing it using unconventional cooking techniques.

Blame their upbringing. “If you look at our pedigree and background, I don’t think you’d expect us to do a U-turn and do something completely casual,” says Selland, who worked for the Fairmont and Four Seasons chains as well as at Toronto icons Splendido and Susur. Blondin did stints at the Rubino brothers’ now-closed Rain and Luce (both known for elaborate presentation) before working with Claudio Aprile at Senses and Colborne Lane, a restaurant famed for its liquid-nitrogen ice cream and other extravagant adventures in molecular gastronomy. It was at Colborne Lane that Blondin met Selland, then working as the general manager, and started talking about opening a place with him.

The food at Acadia maintains the experimental aesthetic of Blondin’s former kitchens. Taking inspiration from nature and his own sketches, his plates feature things like Northumberland Strait scallops garnished with watermelon rind, chicken crackling and a thick squiggle of green, which turns out to be an arugula gel. This isn’t the place for humble cooking. The whipped buttermilk dressing served with Chesapeake Bay crab, for instance, is made from a mixture of cream, buttermilk, cucumber and green-pepper juices. It’s then aerated using an ISI canister, which looks similar to a seltzer bottle. There are also head-scratching items like sungold chow chow, sorghum and benne seeds. “We realize when people pick up our menu, there may be 10 or 12 ingredients on it that they’ve never seen before,” says Blondin. “But we want to introduce them.”

Although Acadian is a Canadian cuisine, the dishes will feel foreign to many diners. The restaurant’s tables are slowly (but surely) filling up, though on the second day of business in mid-July—which also happened to be the city’s hottest day in over 60 years—the patio across the street at Café Diplomatico was brimming with patrons downing pints. Convincing Torontonians that cornbread, collard greens, shrimp and grits go hand in hand with scorching summer temps may be a hard sell. But if that doesn’t work, Acadia has plans to open a patio of its own next summer.


Just Opened - Good Food Revolution

Just Opened: Chef Matt Blondin and Proprietor Scott Selland’s Acadia Restaurant and Bar

Posted on August 11, 2011 by

0


By Kelly Jones

Chef Matt Blondin and Scott Selland outside Acadia.

“When you know what you really want, it makes it a little bit easier to get where you want to go,” Matt tells me over sweating glasses of ice water earlier this week. We’re talking about the gutting and reno of this space—formerly Langolino—that he and business partner Scott Selland (Origin, Splendido, Colborne Lane,Susur) converted into Acadia Restaurant & Bar in under three months. They opened their doors for business a few weeks ago.

It’s clear that this knowing-what-you-really-want attitude permeates the many facets of Acadia—from the choice of location to the Southern menu to the rigidly minimalist interior design to the carefully sourced ingredients.

Chef Matt Blondin (Colborne Lane, Senses, Rain) aspires—and succeeds, according to the reviews—to turn out classic Acadian and Louisiana low country bites gussied up with modern sophistication.

Scott gives me the lowdown on the low country. “The whole Acadian trail runs down the east coast, so it starts in what was formerly Acadia and Nova Scotia and works down through the Carolinas and Louisiana and then eventually New Orleans and Louisiana … So the Acadians that were expelled that ended up in Louisiana are the ones that became the Acadians … But [the cuisine draws from] strong influences from all the way down the eastern seaboard as they travelled along.”

Matt and Scott met while working at Colborne Lane in 2009 and 2010 and always hoped to collaborate on something. After Colborne, Matt went out West. “I went out just to breathe some new air. I wanted to go out there to study the seafood, and I wanted to study agriculture—just pretty much to get a new start, get some new knowledge … When you’re doing something really, really demanding of you, like while I was at Colborne, continuously pushing myself, pushing myself, it was just a little bit overwhelming, I found. And I just needed that break, that moment of clearness where you can just relax—to see a different world.”

Neither Matt nor Scott grew up steeped in Southern culture, but both have connections. Matt was born in Quebec and raised in northern Ontario; most of his family is still in Quebec. Scott’s grandfather lives in South Carolina.

“I don’t necessarily have strong roots to Acadian culture,” says Matt, “but it all blends in together if you think about it, right? My cuisine’s a little different, from north of Quebec to the Maritimes—but it is the same idea throughout. A lot of the dishes are shared, are not identical but are similar in flavor—and in history and culture as well.”

Matt is confident, composed, and certain, but little flashes of ridiculousness burble through his controlled façade, momentarily flaring his fresh-faced appearance. Scott’s youthful look is also tempered by a clean-cut, business-like seriousness. I get the impression that they get along like a house on fire, but this morning it’s business as usual.

Inspiration for Acadia’s menu was drawn from the culmination of months of research and practice. We studied “the produce they use down there,” says Scott. “Lots of old cookbooks, new cookbooks, old chefs, new chefs, where they were getting their influences from.”

“It’s not a seasonal menu,” adds Matt. “It’s just whatever we feel like. Scott with the drinks, me with the menu. Whenever you have a new idea and you think it works well, you test it and try it out and if it works great—why not put it on the menu?”

Although the menu has already evolved slightly since its debut, you can expect to see Matt and his team of three turn out such creative starters as Northumberland Strait scallops with chicken crackling, parm, watermelon rind, and arugula ($13), or Anson Mills Grits & Shrimp with oyster mushroom, pimento cheese, ham hock consommé, and flowering thyme ($12).

Mains might see Kolapore Springs Speckle Trout with oyster mayonnaise, sunchoke relish, charred scallion, and horseradish ($19), or Green Tomato Tartelette with roasted Iroquois cornmeal, almond milk, and assorted lettuces ($16). Sides range from Acadia’s homemade cornbread with sweet potato butter ($5) to collard greens with pancetta and licorice cream ($4) to Boudin Balls with red pepper honey ($6).

Desserts have sweet tooths in a tizzy—as in sugar pie with bourbon raisins and caramelized dairy ($8) or a chocolate bar with salted peanuts and roasted banana ice cream ($8).

Matt also has plans to start producing his own Worcestershire, among other sauces, but, he says, through one of his rare laughs, “It’s been busy!”

Best of the best is the theme here, and that means sometimes sourcing ingredients from across the country and south of the border—think grits and special spice blends, sorghum, syrups, cane sugar (American cane sugar has “a much more roasted, more profound flavor”).

“We hand-select all of our ingredients,” says Scott, who seems surprisingly well-rested and composed for a dad to a new, three-month-old baby. “So they are really the best ones we can get our hands on … by no means are we really waving the Local Flag, but we’ll support it when whenever we can.”

I ask if there are any other restaurants in Toronto that are comparable. A quick and firm “Not at all” is the answer I get from both Matt and Scott. Matt adds, “There’s some stuff that falls within the league, but not that same [culinary] division, as a matter of speaking.”

The space looks completely different than it did as Langolino. Matt and Scott have gone with a very minimalist décor, letting the tight, organized open kitchen and custom stainless steel open bar act as the visual foci of the wood-paneled and exposed brick room. Wall sconces and a caged wine rack seem the only decoration. A wall of windows lets in plenty of light and offers a view of Clinton Street and next summer’s patio-to-be.

Thirty or so pewter chairs tuck neatly under wooden tables; elsewhere, a handful of stools at the bar provides a close-up of craft beers and the mixing of Southern-inspired drinks—such as the State Lines, like a Manhattan, but with bourbon, aperol, vermouth, and maraschino.

Scott and Matt chose this spot, a few doors north of College on Clinton Street, across from the Dip and Olivia’s, for a number of different reasons—the amount of work that it required, the easygoing landlords (“good human beings!”), and the location: the College Street ‘hood.

“There’s Frank’s Kitchen, Woodlot, Grace … ,” Matt says, trailing off. “The neighborhood is changing a lot, in our opinion. So, we’re another candidate to actually push that trend toward a younger generation of chefs in this city.”

Acadia is open for dinner at 5:30 every day except Tuesday.

50C Clinton Street

416.792.6002