Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Toronto Star - Meet the Matts


Meet the Matts

By Amy PatakiRestaurant Critic

Toronto’s three most talked-about restaurants are helmed by chefs named Matt. Matt Blondin,  Matt DeMille and Matthew Barber spoke to the Star about their cooking styles, kitchen idols and what to do with 30 kilos of ripe Ontario peaches.

Toronto’s three most talked-about restaurants are helmed by chefs named Matt. Matt Blondin, Matt DeMille and Matthew Barber spoke to the Star about their cooking styles, kitchen idols and what to do with 30 kilos of ripe Ontario peaches.

TARA WALTON/Photo Credit
Call it, the summer of Matt

Toronto’s three most talked-about restaurants are helmed by chefs named Matt.

There’s Matt Blondin doing high-concept Southern food at his new restaurant, Acadia, on Clinton St. at College.

On Dundas St. W. at Dovercourt, Matt DeMille took over the kitchen at the popular Roman-style trattoria Enoteca Sociale on July 26, freeing founding chef/co-owner Rocco Agostino to open Pizzeria Libretto’s second location, on Danforth Ave. at Carlaw Ave.

Matthew Barber’s southwestern comfort food has drawn crowds to The Combine Eatery on the Danforth.

The trio was game to answer the Star’s quirky questions and pose for a group photograph. Blondin proposed following the lead of Montreal chef/hunter Martin Picard by taking a photo “naked with a dead deer and a glass of Pinot.”

Despite the differences in their cooking styles, we learned the three share certain traits. All grew up outside Toronto, have kitchen idols they look up to and know exactly what to do with 30 kilograms of ripe Ontario peaches.

MATT BLONDIN

Chef at Acadia

Date of birth: May 5, 1983

Nickname: LeBlanc

Hometown: Near Sudbury, Ont.

CV: Colborne Lane, Rain

Signature dish: Sun Gold tomatoes with lightly pickled shrimp, nasturtiums, lovage and three variations on celery (hearts, leaves and root)

Cooking style: New American flavours with an East Coast influence

Moment he knew he had talent: When Guy Rubino told me I had what it takes to make it

Kitchen idol: Curtis Duffy (of Chicago’s Avenues), for his all-around professionalism, calmness, dedication and treatment of staff

After-work libation: Cold beer

Three items always in his fridge: Coca-Cola, cheese, apples

Dish his mother makes best: She does a lot of good things with blueberries and baking

Best career advice he’s received: Nothing about opening your own restaurant, that’s for sure

Peaches are in season. What would you do with 30 kilos? Make peach mustard for a Tasso ham dish, infuse some in bourbon for a cocktail and either roast or confit whole pitted peaches for dessert


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